Wednesday, April 25, 2007

1990's Men's Ties - Designers Nicole Miller, Tommy Bahama & Ralph Marlin Show Their Changing Width

Neckties were all over the board during the 1960's. In the early part of the decade the trend toward skinny and even skinnier ties continued from the 50's, with the production of neckwear as narrow as 1 inch while by the mid 60's they ballooned to 6 inches wide! It was a time of Kipper style neckties, and the wider the better! It didn't hurt that men's suits also transitioned from thin lapels and tapered pant legs to wide lapels and bell bottom slacks, and ties followed the fashion trend. The 1980's were a decade of the slimmer and the skinnier with widths in the 2 to 3 1/4 inch range. What followed in the 1990's was almost as schizophrenic as the 1960's when it came to width.

Nicole Miller Neckwear Provides Clues

Nicole Miller is a fashion designer who created her own clothing and accessories in the early 80's which have continue to be produced to this day. Her line of neckties features a loop label with her name and the year a particular tie was released, so we can take the cue from this savvy designer as to how things narrowed and expanded during the 90's.

In 1990 the width was a steady 3 3/4 inches. I have personally measured her art auction, casino, Vito's pizza and frustrated-at-golf themed ties. Please note that the descriptions are mine and Ms. Miller may have given them different names at the time they were for sale. In 1991 half the ties remained at 3 3/4 inches (her license plate and watching-a-football-game ones) while others were 4 inches wide (another football themed and Absolut Vodka neckwear).

In 1992 and 1993 her Manhattan, NYC, and cows themes measured at 3 3/4 inches while her booze, dental office, Austin, Texas, court room drama and real estate novelty neckties were 4 inches from edge to edge at the tip. Not much of a change from the previous two years.

In 1994, 1995 and 1996 while many were a steady 4 inches, some widened to 4 1/4 and even 4 1/2 inches. Four inch ties included the wine, stock exchange, world cup 1994, birthday, Lipton soup mix, cigar, Pentium computers, nautical, and real estate themed accessories while the Kinkos, accountant, bowling, NFL football and another wine themed measured at 4 1/4 inches and her DVX sparkling wine neckwear was 4 1/2 inches wide.

By 1997 everything seemed to settle down at 4 inches in width, as with Miller's airport luggage, cigar and Wall Street themes.

Tommy Bahama & Liz Claiborne Neckties

Other designing firms such as Tommy Bahama and Liz Claiborne also manufactured wider accessories during some time in the 1990's. However, they didn't include dates. I've come across one such floral Claiborne at 4 1/2 inches wide and several Bahama ones 4 1/4 and 4 1/2 inches, all with tropical themes which include orchids, hula dancers, flamingos, and beach scenes. In fact, these particular ties hark back to their vintage counterparts of the 1940's with their flared out thin ends! Other manufacturers followed suit with a general widening during this time.

Ralph Marlin & Company Neckwear

Leading into the 1990's, Ralph Marlin produced neckties in the 3 to 3 1/4 "range. They remained in that area for the most part from 1990 through a portion of 1993, and then expanded to 3 3/4 for all of '94, '95, '96 and '97. All those manufactured in 1998 and 1999 were either 3 3/4 or 4 inches at the tip.

Conclusion

While there are no hard and fast rules as to the width of ties during this decade, many ranged from 3 to 4 1/2 inches, which isn't as drastic as what occurred during the 60's, but still is worth the mention. For the most part, anyone wearing anything 3 1/4 to 4 inches was safe with their fashion statement.

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